The trip lasted 28 days, so i decided to write a day-by-day account, to try and stop me rambling too much! I am aware that some of this is in past tense, and some in present. Sorry about that, but i really dont have time to write as well as i would like!
These photos are just a sampling of the thousands that i took. I will eventually have the best ones uploaded onto my flickr site.
Day 1-
11 hour bus trip from Kathmandu to Jiri. Very bumpy/twisty/scary roads, but i have gotten used to them by now. Jiri is a lovely little town in the hills, although it seems like its glory days are behind it. With most people flying into Lukla to start the trek, it must only get 5 or 10% of the people it used to.
Day 2- Jiri to Thampa
(a relatively fresh faced me at the beginning of the trail)
6am start, which was a bit of a shock, but would become the norm for the rest of the trip actually, as the weather was best in the morning. Saw two small foreign tour groups, and a single Korean lady hiking out, as well as many farms and friendly locals. Got caught by rain about an hour outside of Kinja where I had planned on staying, so spent the night with a local family. Had fried fish from the river, which was a nice addition to the standard dal (lentil soup), vegetable curry and rice that forms the staple diet of the Nepalese.
(One of the many bridges i had to cross today)
(the view on the first day)
Day 3 - Thampa to Lamjura La
Caught up with 2 Swiss guys who I had seen at the bus stop in Kathmandu on day 1. They had taken a bus all the way to Kinja - lazy! We walked together for much much of the day though, before they decided to stop at 2.30pm. I kept going until 6pm of course! 2000m of climbing today, in fact, i think, apart from the hour walk to Kinja this morning, today was ALL UP HILL! I spent the night at the top of my first pass, 3530m, which would be the highest elevation I would reach for another 3 days, and was a great way to acclimatise. Hiking through rhododendron forests, with a huge mix of colours. Beautiful hike, and a lovely sunset, but COLD up here.
Day 4 - Lamjura La to Taibu
(View down into village of Junbesi)
Woke up to a view of snowy mountains, my first real sight of them so far. LONG decent down to Junbesi but the most amazing alpine scenery - big flowery meadows,forests, mountains - just with a Himalayas twist, with yak in the fields, and rhododendron in the forests.
(sorry about it being sideways- the forests i was talking about)
Beautiful weather in the morning, which had unfortunately clouded over by the time i reached the first Everest view point. Typical. Visited a monastery that was near Junbesi, and bought some yak cheese from a small 'cheese factory' - rather like parmesan, so a little odd to just snack on while walking, but very tasty. I had planned to walk further, but big scary storm clouds were threatening, and I was exhausted, so i spent the night in the tiny house of a retired porter. He was very friendly, and the view from his house was great, being halfway down a valley. I met a Czech couple who i walked with for a few hours, but they were rather slow, so left them behind.
(Buddhist stupa i passed at 6am at the top of the pass)
(another bridge crossing)
Day 5 - Taibu to Paiya
Long decent to the bottom of the valley this morning, and then a long climb all afternoon. This hike in is exhausting, but the scenery has been worth it - virtually no foreign hikers, and the locals are no longer dependant on the trekking money - they have reverted to farming. This used to be the major route to Everest Base Camp, until the airport was built, and many villages have big empty guest houses.
(All over Nepal you would find kids working)
I COULD have made it to Lukla today if i had been fitter - not that i wanted to stay there, but just nice to know what i am capable of. Met a Swede walking the other way, who had just finished doing what i was planning on doing (hike in - Base Camp plus extra passes, and then hiking out), although he looked exhausted and complained about his feet hurting, which didn't bode well for me.
(a water powered flour grinder)
Also met an old New Zealand-er who was there as a volunteer, conducting teacher training in the village schools. This was my first day trying out the 'Nepal diet' (tea for breakfast, then dal baht (the lentil soup, curry and rice meal) at 10am as a brunch, and then again at 7pm as dinner) and i only did it once more - i just need more food! It its the best value food up here, and the best use of fuel, as i was eating the same food as the locals, at the same time, and it was certainly more authentic, but just not enough variety, and hard to hike on only tea in the morning! Great weather all day.
(Porter carrying a HUGE load of food aid from the US)
Day 6 - Paiya to Namche
A LONG day of walking, although most of it was very easy, with just the last climb up to Namche being challenging, and not helped by the fact that I had just completed a walk that most people do in 2 days.
(Cow and monastery)
It was also a very different days walking - so many tourists, most of the with porters and guides - slowly making their way along the much better maintained trails. Many more guest-houses along the way, and the price of food has gone up!
(sideways donkeys, sorry)
Namche is certainly a shock, being the closest thing to a town as i have been in since Kathmandu. Lots of things to tempt me, and i succumbed to some apple pie, snickers and tinned mango (not all at once!)
(more donkeys)
After all of the 10 hour days i have done up to this point, tomorrow will be a relatively short day- my knees will thank me!
Day 7 - Namche to Pangboche
(View in the morning as i left Namche)
Due to being tired, and as everyone keeps telling me to slow down to avoid AMS - Acute mountain sickness - just a 6 hour day today. Not that it was easy, as there was a 2 hour climb up to the monastery at Tengboche. There were 40 monks or so, in a huge and clearly wealthy complex. About an hour later i visited a small nunnery, which was markedly different - 9 nuns, in a collapsing complex. Stayed and drank tea with two ladies who were helping the nuns tidy their grounds. No English spoken, but still had a great time!
(more mountains)
It is much colder up here, so i hope i will stay warm enough! Bought some retro sunglasses after I discovered i left my expensive ones at the Jiri guest-house, so at least i will still be able to see up here. There will be lots of snow higher up and a very real threat of snow blindness. New yak cheese from Namche is more like a Gorgonzola- much stronger flavour, and softer than the last one. Still tastes great and is nice to just snack on as i walk.
(the amazing sunglasses)
Day 8 - Pangboche to Dingboche
Was feeling slow this morning, so walked another short day. I have plenty of time, so no need to push it too hard! Napped a lot and i hope i will be energised for tomorrow, and after finding a shop selling cheap peanuts, i have the fuel now as well! Also picked up some gloves - woven yak wool ones, that are in no way designed for trekking, but, certainly stand out! I saw my first ice on the trail today, and am surrounded by snowcapped mountains - well, at least until mid afternoon when the clouds roll in as always.
(Buddhist stupa in Dingboche)
Day 9 - Dingboche to Chukung
Later start - 6.30am! It means i miss a few hours of good light if i start later, but given the temperature up here, its just more comfortable to start later.
(icy stream)
After leaving my stuff in Chukung, i climbed Chukung Ri, which at 5500 meters is the highest elevation i will reach all trip (will get that high twice more though). No issues with AMS so that bodes well for the rest of the trip, and is especially nice to know as i have been climbing far faster than is recommended. Some great views at the top, but not for long as the afternoon clouds arrived on time. In fact, they brought with them rather a lot of snow! Which covered everything and is very beautiful, but means i will not attempt the pass tomorrow - Kongma la - as it is supposed to be hard enough in good weather, let alone snow.
Day 10 - Chukung
First time staying in the same guest-house for more than one night! Snow covering everything, so spent the day messing around on the glacier, and a short trip to a frozen lake. Snowed all afternoon, but will still attempt the pass tomorrow, as there is a group of us willing to try- safety in numbers!
(the view)
The snow stopped in the evening, and with the full moon, and cloudless sky, it was beautiful at night.
(mountains!)
(more mountains- the view from the top of Chukung-Ri)
Day 11 - Chukung to Lobuche
Every morning so far this trip, as started clear in the mornings, and eventually clouded over. So today, which was to be the hardest day of the entire trek, chose to be snowy and a complete white-out! It should have taken 8 hours to do, but in the end, after getting lost and struggling to stay on the trail, it took us 12 hours!
(probably the hardest days hiking i have ever done)
We all made it down eventually, without anyone having to be eaten thankfully, but it wasn't much fun - very cold, and not much to see, although i did see a frozen waterfall and some large quail like birds which were interesting.
(the glacier at the bottom - the last thing you want to cross after doing the pass)
Day 12 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep
Woke up with a sunburnt face, especially my lips! Very very painful, and especially annoying as there wasn't even any sun the day before. Made to Everest Base Camp though, which was rather the anti-climax that everyone says it is. Just lots of tents, but very glad i went, as its location, at the bottom of the Khumbu ice shelf is amazing, and, just to be at the base camp, surrounded by lots of crazy people who plan on climbing even higher!
The guest house has lots of banners from groups who have made the trek to base camp - it is nice to see excitement of the groups, and the genuine sense of achievement from such a diverse mix of people (saw banners from Iran and Chile amongst the usual western countries). However, the trek to base camp is REALLY EASY. It look me 4 days to hike what most people take 9 days to do. I am not trying to brag, but i haven't been training (while many people clearly have), and i am not only carrying my own stuff (which most people dont), but i am carrying far more stuff than i need to, as i will also be trekking out of the area towards India.
(letting some yaks pass (they are actually half yak/half cow, as they are easier to control ))
Another snowy afternoon, which i hope clears up for tomorrow mornings climb up Kala Patar, for my first view of Everest. I had a craving for baked beans, and found a tin for 300rs (about £3) but it was worth it! The sauce was very different to English baked beans, but still tasty.
Day 13 - Gorak Shep to Dzongla
(do i look cold? oh, that black mountain is Everest)
4am start, to get to the top of Kala Patar before sunrise. SOOOO CCOOOOLLLDDD, in fact, the tips of my fingers would tingle for the rest of the trip. There was a full moon, so no need for a head torch, which made things easier, and glad i got up there so early. Only 1 other person on the mountain (Bjorn who i was to hike with for a few days), and just the most amazing views. Hurried down to warm up though, as it was truly freezing up there.
(video from Gorak shep)
Hiked down hill for hours, passing the Italian Pyramid, an environment research station, housed in a glass pyramid for some reason. Interesting stop, and the quick tour was fun. I dont think many trekkers bother to visit, which seems a waste.
Day 14 - Dzongla to Gokyo
Second pass complete - Cho la, and this one was easier than the last, mainly as the weather was perfect! This one involved some mild rock climbing, which would have been killer in the weather we had last time. Lots of snow and ice at the top, and beautiful views everywhere! Still a 7 hour day though, with another difficult decent and glacier to cross.
(water powered prayer wheel)
Gokyo lake is a lovely location, and a nice big guest house with lots of heating made reading pleasant. Snow again this evening put an end to plans of sunset mountain viewing.
Day 15 - Gokyo
Snow covering everything this morning, moon still visible over the lake- very peaceful. Climbed Gokyo-Ri for another view of Everest. Went up later this time, so warmer, and perfect weather! Feeling rather tired today though, so relaxing day reading.
(view of Everest from Gokyo Ri- While i had just climbed for 1 1/2 hours, the heavy breathing is mainly an effect of the altitude, not being tired)
Day 16 - Gokyo
Snowy morning stopped the plan to do the final pass today, so spent the day being very lazy- lots of eating and reading! Had yak bolognese with yak cheese- yummy!
(Gokyo lake and village - really beautiful place)
Day 17 - Gokyo to Namche
Clear ish skies so decided to head off to do the final pass- Renjo-la. I had been hiking with 2 other guys - Paul from Israel and Bjorn from Denmark - for the last couple days, but they wanted to stay in Gokyo another day, so this was the first pass i did by myself. No rush, and nice to be able to walk at my own pace, slightly scary as i couldn't see any footprints, and for a large part of the trip, there were snow leopard prints visible. No one around to rescue me! But it didn't matter as the hike was easy and there were even some steps for the decent! Having the whole mountain to myself was amazing, and the only time i was so alone among the snow. I tied a cotton scarf that i had brought from Kazakhstan, to one of the Buddhist prayer flags at the top of the pass. I know i was mixing religions, but i dont really think it mattered. I was given the scarf while visiting the cave mosque in southern Kazakhstan, on the final short trip through the country that i made with 7 other friends, so great memories were attached!
(a whole mountain to myself- and Kazakhstan flag)
The plan had been to stop at Thame for the night, but as i was walking through, it didn't strike me as being that interesting, so i continued all the way to Namche. Went a bit crazy shopping on my return - bought a new merino wool sweater (50% sale), plus a fake down feather vest, and lots of food!
Day 18 - Namche
I had hoped to check out the Tibetan Market today, but it doesn't start until after the monsoon apparently, so found myself with a day to burn and decided to spend it reading and eating. Today i ate:
2 Dairy Milk chocolate bars
2 Mars bars
100g yak cheese
1 Dal Baht (the rice/soup/curry meal)
1 yak chilli with chips
1 pack of peanuts
1 pack of dried pears
1 bowl of porridge
1 samosa
1 bowl of instant noodles
1 piece of apple pie
1 pack of HobNobs (English oat cookies)
1 tin of baked beans
2 tins of fruit
1 tuna sandwich
I just felt so hungry! Lazy day was helped by the first rain i have seen for 2 weeks.
(the sounds of Namche..constant construction)
Day 19/20 - Namche to Khumjung
Well, after all of that food, i guess it should be a surprise that i got food poisoning. Had terrible stomach cramps, vomiting and diarrhoea for 2 days. Luckily i was staying in a very peaceful guest house, all by myself, but i missed out on exploring the village it was set it. I had planned to go up north of Namche for a night, as i had missed the village on the way up, but ended up spending 2 days in bed, feeling sorry for myself. The little i did see though was great- a much more traditional Sherpa village than Namche, and far quieter.
Day 21 - Khumjung to Monjo
I was feeling better in the morning, so felt it was time to start heading down. After my food binge 2 days before, i had barely eaten anything, so was rather weak and slow, and didn't get as far as i had hoped. Spent the slow hike trying to guess which countries hikers came from, based upon the brand of their hiking equipment. Its impossible with North Face as it is too big, but Osprey hiking bags = probably American, MEC = definitely Canadian, Karrimor/Rab/Mountain Equipment = probably English, MontBell = definitely Japanese, and 80's tracksuit with a balaclava and look of exhaustion marks you are being Indian, while drinking booze at dinner and never smiling clearly shows you are Russian.
Day 22 - Monjo to Paiya
Appetite is certainly back! And feeling much better thankfully. Had a nice conversation at dinner and again at breakfast with members of a 26 person strong N.American group - all are strangers, but seem to be getting on well. They did however pay $3200 each for 14 days of trekking- CRAZY MONEY! My entire 5 month trip will have cost less than that.
I stopped off for lunch at a small local place that i stopped at on the way up. They remembered me (probably as the strange foreign person, as this was certainly not a place catering for tourists), and i got free juice and tea this time- brand loyalty pays off!
Am back on the quiet Jiri route now, so far less people, in fact i only saw 1 Japanese guy all afternoon. I also had my first shower during the whole hike! It was a cold one, but still, i feel much better. Was strange to see how much weight ive lost as well, as its the first time ive taken my thermal underwear off in 2 weeks.
Day 23 - Paiya to Chatuk
I saw a pair of birds this morning - one was bright orange, the other bright yellow. They didn't look real, as the colours were just so vivid. I saw 5 Europeans on the trail this morning, but after turning off to the even quieter trail towards Tumlingtar, i have barely seen anyway, foreign or otherwise. There is none of the porter traffic on this trail.
Lovely hiking in an area that doesn't see many tourists, and apart from the odd guest house, it almost seems untouched. My sleeping plans were dashed by the rain, and 1 woman's greed. Due to the rain, i was slower than planned, and wasn't able to get to the village i wanted to. I stopped at a guest house and was told it was 100rs for a room, despite it saying 60rs in the menu. While the total amount of money was little, i held my ground on principle, and in the end the woman got nothing. I walked an extra hour and ended up staying in a tiny little place next to a waterfall, with only 2 teenage girls running it, as their parents had gone off visiting for a few days. It was dark, draughty and ratty (Is that an adjective ?) but it was certainly an experience, and matched my budget. I put my ear plugs in but still didn't get much sleep though, as instead of hearing rats i just dreamt of them instead.
(A paper factory - handmade paper to be used to make Buddhist hangings)
Day 24 - Chatuk to Bung
UP all morning, and DOWN all afternoon, in beautiful and unspoilt (by tourism - the locals have done a good job of chopping the trees down) countryside. No tourists at all, and very peaceful here, with some of the villages looking untouched for 100's of years! Some very spooky Lord of the Rings style mossy woods - i kept expecting giant spiders to try and eat me. The mood was aided by the thick fog that has blanketed the hills today. Another local place to stay tonight, complete with straw mattress which i think is a first for this trip. I have left the Sherpa area, and its back to Hindu Rai villages now, which means less smiles, English and Tibetan fashion, and more silly hats and moustaches.
Day 25 - Bung to Sonam
Breakfast of Tsampa tea is tasty enough, but not very filling, so i stopped for a brunch of friend potatoes in the lovely village of Gundel.
(peace and chicken in Gundel)
There are fruit trees everywhere, and far more variety in the foods being planted - not just the corn and potatoes of the Sherpa highlands. I met a Guatemalan lady this morning, who was the first foreigner i have seen for 2 days. It is sunnier today than it has been, and that means hotter, and therefore sweatier! I made it to Sonam just before the rains which was lucky, but its strange little village. Most of the buildings looks abandoned, yet there is a brand new temple being built on the hill. The guest house was closed so i stayed with a very friendly local family.
(the lovely little house i stayed in)
Day 26 - Sonam to Gothe Bazaar
Very cheap food and accommodation, complete with smiles! I really liked my night in Sonam, but had a long day walking ahead, including my last big climb. Good weather allowed great views of Mt.Mera though. Met a French guy going the same way as me, so we hiked together all the way to Gothe Bazaar, which was further than i had planned on going. Much hotter at this lower elevation, so a swim in the river was very much needed! Sound of the river, cicadas and birds roosting in the thatched roof of the guest house lent a very rustic feel to the night.
(making planks - much of the housing down here is made from wood/bamboo)
Day 27 - Gothe Bazaar to Tumlingtar
The villages in this area are much poorer/ simplier than those found on the main trekking route, and they have much more of a South East Asian feel - thatched roofs, bamboo walls and mud floors. The weather also helps, with high humidity making things rather uncomfortable. Rice is grown everywhere down here, so the crops have certainly changed, and everywhere is very green. I was my first road in 25 days, and first fisherman, bicycle and concrete house, and had fresh bananas! First fresh fruit i have had since Kathmandu.
Day 28 - Tumlingtar to Dharan
There is a national strike on at the moment, and as part of that no cars and buses are on the roads. I am not sure why, but it seemed that it was being enforced anyway, as we didn't see anything on the road we had to hike down. Villages here are very poor, and far less people than at higher elevations, which is odd as its usually the other way around. We managed to find a bus that was running in the evening, seemingly breaking the strike! Overpriced and cramped, but it got us to Dharan a day earlier than we had expected. I spent the day dreaming about all the food i will eat in India, Dubai and England, as Nepali cuisine has grown rather tiresome.
(See- the houses ARE different down here)
Day 29 - Dharan to India
A LONG day full of adventure. With the strike continuing, we started walking from Dharan, not sure how far we could get (150km to the border) but trying our luck. After an hour we managed to hitch a lift with a government water truck, and he dropped us outside a police station, where they hailed two motor bikes to take us to Itahari, the next town. 1/3 of the way there within 2 hours! However, our luck ran out somewhat, and it took the rest of the day to get to the border, and included 20kms of walking, along with hitching on the back of motorbikes, taking a richshaw, getting rides from 2 kids on bicycles, hitching a ride with a bus full of wedding guests, and eventually paying for a ride on the back of a motorbike. A fitting end to my Nepal experience.
(a terrible photo of me at the end of it all...not sure why my eyes are closed. Thinner and beardier)
I took MANY MANY more photos, but i hope these ones help explain my writing, and give a taste of what i saw, and as i said, the best of the rest will eventually find their way onto flickr/facebook
These photos are just a sampling of the thousands that i took. I will eventually have the best ones uploaded onto my flickr site.
Day 1-
11 hour bus trip from Kathmandu to Jiri. Very bumpy/twisty/scary roads, but i have gotten used to them by now. Jiri is a lovely little town in the hills, although it seems like its glory days are behind it. With most people flying into Lukla to start the trek, it must only get 5 or 10% of the people it used to.
Day 2- Jiri to Thampa
(a relatively fresh faced me at the beginning of the trail)
6am start, which was a bit of a shock, but would become the norm for the rest of the trip actually, as the weather was best in the morning. Saw two small foreign tour groups, and a single Korean lady hiking out, as well as many farms and friendly locals. Got caught by rain about an hour outside of Kinja where I had planned on staying, so spent the night with a local family. Had fried fish from the river, which was a nice addition to the standard dal (lentil soup), vegetable curry and rice that forms the staple diet of the Nepalese.
(One of the many bridges i had to cross today)
(the view on the first day)
Day 3 - Thampa to Lamjura La
Caught up with 2 Swiss guys who I had seen at the bus stop in Kathmandu on day 1. They had taken a bus all the way to Kinja - lazy! We walked together for much much of the day though, before they decided to stop at 2.30pm. I kept going until 6pm of course! 2000m of climbing today, in fact, i think, apart from the hour walk to Kinja this morning, today was ALL UP HILL! I spent the night at the top of my first pass, 3530m, which would be the highest elevation I would reach for another 3 days, and was a great way to acclimatise. Hiking through rhododendron forests, with a huge mix of colours. Beautiful hike, and a lovely sunset, but COLD up here.
Day 4 - Lamjura La to Taibu
(View down into village of Junbesi)
Woke up to a view of snowy mountains, my first real sight of them so far. LONG decent down to Junbesi but the most amazing alpine scenery - big flowery meadows,forests, mountains - just with a Himalayas twist, with yak in the fields, and rhododendron in the forests.
(sorry about it being sideways- the forests i was talking about)
Beautiful weather in the morning, which had unfortunately clouded over by the time i reached the first Everest view point. Typical. Visited a monastery that was near Junbesi, and bought some yak cheese from a small 'cheese factory' - rather like parmesan, so a little odd to just snack on while walking, but very tasty. I had planned to walk further, but big scary storm clouds were threatening, and I was exhausted, so i spent the night in the tiny house of a retired porter. He was very friendly, and the view from his house was great, being halfway down a valley. I met a Czech couple who i walked with for a few hours, but they were rather slow, so left them behind.
(Buddhist stupa i passed at 6am at the top of the pass)
(another bridge crossing)
Day 5 - Taibu to Paiya
Long decent to the bottom of the valley this morning, and then a long climb all afternoon. This hike in is exhausting, but the scenery has been worth it - virtually no foreign hikers, and the locals are no longer dependant on the trekking money - they have reverted to farming. This used to be the major route to Everest Base Camp, until the airport was built, and many villages have big empty guest houses.
(All over Nepal you would find kids working)
I COULD have made it to Lukla today if i had been fitter - not that i wanted to stay there, but just nice to know what i am capable of. Met a Swede walking the other way, who had just finished doing what i was planning on doing (hike in - Base Camp plus extra passes, and then hiking out), although he looked exhausted and complained about his feet hurting, which didn't bode well for me.
(a water powered flour grinder)
Also met an old New Zealand-er who was there as a volunteer, conducting teacher training in the village schools. This was my first day trying out the 'Nepal diet' (tea for breakfast, then dal baht (the lentil soup, curry and rice meal) at 10am as a brunch, and then again at 7pm as dinner) and i only did it once more - i just need more food! It its the best value food up here, and the best use of fuel, as i was eating the same food as the locals, at the same time, and it was certainly more authentic, but just not enough variety, and hard to hike on only tea in the morning! Great weather all day.
(Porter carrying a HUGE load of food aid from the US)
Day 6 - Paiya to Namche
A LONG day of walking, although most of it was very easy, with just the last climb up to Namche being challenging, and not helped by the fact that I had just completed a walk that most people do in 2 days.
(Cow and monastery)
It was also a very different days walking - so many tourists, most of the with porters and guides - slowly making their way along the much better maintained trails. Many more guest-houses along the way, and the price of food has gone up!
(sideways donkeys, sorry)
Namche is certainly a shock, being the closest thing to a town as i have been in since Kathmandu. Lots of things to tempt me, and i succumbed to some apple pie, snickers and tinned mango (not all at once!)
(more donkeys)
After all of the 10 hour days i have done up to this point, tomorrow will be a relatively short day- my knees will thank me!
Day 7 - Namche to Pangboche
(View in the morning as i left Namche)
Due to being tired, and as everyone keeps telling me to slow down to avoid AMS - Acute mountain sickness - just a 6 hour day today. Not that it was easy, as there was a 2 hour climb up to the monastery at Tengboche. There were 40 monks or so, in a huge and clearly wealthy complex. About an hour later i visited a small nunnery, which was markedly different - 9 nuns, in a collapsing complex. Stayed and drank tea with two ladies who were helping the nuns tidy their grounds. No English spoken, but still had a great time!
(more mountains)
It is much colder up here, so i hope i will stay warm enough! Bought some retro sunglasses after I discovered i left my expensive ones at the Jiri guest-house, so at least i will still be able to see up here. There will be lots of snow higher up and a very real threat of snow blindness. New yak cheese from Namche is more like a Gorgonzola- much stronger flavour, and softer than the last one. Still tastes great and is nice to just snack on as i walk.
(the amazing sunglasses)
Day 8 - Pangboche to Dingboche
Was feeling slow this morning, so walked another short day. I have plenty of time, so no need to push it too hard! Napped a lot and i hope i will be energised for tomorrow, and after finding a shop selling cheap peanuts, i have the fuel now as well! Also picked up some gloves - woven yak wool ones, that are in no way designed for trekking, but, certainly stand out! I saw my first ice on the trail today, and am surrounded by snowcapped mountains - well, at least until mid afternoon when the clouds roll in as always.
(Buddhist stupa in Dingboche)
Day 9 - Dingboche to Chukung
Later start - 6.30am! It means i miss a few hours of good light if i start later, but given the temperature up here, its just more comfortable to start later.
(icy stream)
After leaving my stuff in Chukung, i climbed Chukung Ri, which at 5500 meters is the highest elevation i will reach all trip (will get that high twice more though). No issues with AMS so that bodes well for the rest of the trip, and is especially nice to know as i have been climbing far faster than is recommended. Some great views at the top, but not for long as the afternoon clouds arrived on time. In fact, they brought with them rather a lot of snow! Which covered everything and is very beautiful, but means i will not attempt the pass tomorrow - Kongma la - as it is supposed to be hard enough in good weather, let alone snow.
Day 10 - Chukung
First time staying in the same guest-house for more than one night! Snow covering everything, so spent the day messing around on the glacier, and a short trip to a frozen lake. Snowed all afternoon, but will still attempt the pass tomorrow, as there is a group of us willing to try- safety in numbers!
(the view)
The snow stopped in the evening, and with the full moon, and cloudless sky, it was beautiful at night.
(more mountains- the view from the top of Chukung-Ri)
Every morning so far this trip, as started clear in the mornings, and eventually clouded over. So today, which was to be the hardest day of the entire trek, chose to be snowy and a complete white-out! It should have taken 8 hours to do, but in the end, after getting lost and struggling to stay on the trail, it took us 12 hours!
(probably the hardest days hiking i have ever done)
We all made it down eventually, without anyone having to be eaten thankfully, but it wasn't much fun - very cold, and not much to see, although i did see a frozen waterfall and some large quail like birds which were interesting.
(the glacier at the bottom - the last thing you want to cross after doing the pass)
Day 12 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep
Woke up with a sunburnt face, especially my lips! Very very painful, and especially annoying as there wasn't even any sun the day before. Made to Everest Base Camp though, which was rather the anti-climax that everyone says it is. Just lots of tents, but very glad i went, as its location, at the bottom of the Khumbu ice shelf is amazing, and, just to be at the base camp, surrounded by lots of crazy people who plan on climbing even higher!
The guest house has lots of banners from groups who have made the trek to base camp - it is nice to see excitement of the groups, and the genuine sense of achievement from such a diverse mix of people (saw banners from Iran and Chile amongst the usual western countries). However, the trek to base camp is REALLY EASY. It look me 4 days to hike what most people take 9 days to do. I am not trying to brag, but i haven't been training (while many people clearly have), and i am not only carrying my own stuff (which most people dont), but i am carrying far more stuff than i need to, as i will also be trekking out of the area towards India.
(letting some yaks pass (they are actually half yak/half cow, as they are easier to control ))
Another snowy afternoon, which i hope clears up for tomorrow mornings climb up Kala Patar, for my first view of Everest. I had a craving for baked beans, and found a tin for 300rs (about £3) but it was worth it! The sauce was very different to English baked beans, but still tasty.
Day 13 - Gorak Shep to Dzongla
(do i look cold? oh, that black mountain is Everest)
4am start, to get to the top of Kala Patar before sunrise. SOOOO CCOOOOLLLDDD, in fact, the tips of my fingers would tingle for the rest of the trip. There was a full moon, so no need for a head torch, which made things easier, and glad i got up there so early. Only 1 other person on the mountain (Bjorn who i was to hike with for a few days), and just the most amazing views. Hurried down to warm up though, as it was truly freezing up there.
(video from Gorak shep)
Hiked down hill for hours, passing the Italian Pyramid, an environment research station, housed in a glass pyramid for some reason. Interesting stop, and the quick tour was fun. I dont think many trekkers bother to visit, which seems a waste.
Day 14 - Dzongla to Gokyo
Second pass complete - Cho la, and this one was easier than the last, mainly as the weather was perfect! This one involved some mild rock climbing, which would have been killer in the weather we had last time. Lots of snow and ice at the top, and beautiful views everywhere! Still a 7 hour day though, with another difficult decent and glacier to cross.
(water powered prayer wheel)
Gokyo lake is a lovely location, and a nice big guest house with lots of heating made reading pleasant. Snow again this evening put an end to plans of sunset mountain viewing.
Day 15 - Gokyo
Snow covering everything this morning, moon still visible over the lake- very peaceful. Climbed Gokyo-Ri for another view of Everest. Went up later this time, so warmer, and perfect weather! Feeling rather tired today though, so relaxing day reading.
(view of Everest from Gokyo Ri- While i had just climbed for 1 1/2 hours, the heavy breathing is mainly an effect of the altitude, not being tired)
Day 16 - Gokyo
Snowy morning stopped the plan to do the final pass today, so spent the day being very lazy- lots of eating and reading! Had yak bolognese with yak cheese- yummy!
(Gokyo lake and village - really beautiful place)
Day 17 - Gokyo to Namche
Clear ish skies so decided to head off to do the final pass- Renjo-la. I had been hiking with 2 other guys - Paul from Israel and Bjorn from Denmark - for the last couple days, but they wanted to stay in Gokyo another day, so this was the first pass i did by myself. No rush, and nice to be able to walk at my own pace, slightly scary as i couldn't see any footprints, and for a large part of the trip, there were snow leopard prints visible. No one around to rescue me! But it didn't matter as the hike was easy and there were even some steps for the decent! Having the whole mountain to myself was amazing, and the only time i was so alone among the snow. I tied a cotton scarf that i had brought from Kazakhstan, to one of the Buddhist prayer flags at the top of the pass. I know i was mixing religions, but i dont really think it mattered. I was given the scarf while visiting the cave mosque in southern Kazakhstan, on the final short trip through the country that i made with 7 other friends, so great memories were attached!
(a whole mountain to myself- and Kazakhstan flag)
The plan had been to stop at Thame for the night, but as i was walking through, it didn't strike me as being that interesting, so i continued all the way to Namche. Went a bit crazy shopping on my return - bought a new merino wool sweater (50% sale), plus a fake down feather vest, and lots of food!
Day 18 - Namche
I had hoped to check out the Tibetan Market today, but it doesn't start until after the monsoon apparently, so found myself with a day to burn and decided to spend it reading and eating. Today i ate:
2 Dairy Milk chocolate bars
2 Mars bars
100g yak cheese
1 Dal Baht (the rice/soup/curry meal)
1 yak chilli with chips
1 pack of peanuts
1 pack of dried pears
1 bowl of porridge
1 samosa
1 bowl of instant noodles
1 piece of apple pie
1 pack of HobNobs (English oat cookies)
1 tin of baked beans
2 tins of fruit
1 tuna sandwich
I just felt so hungry! Lazy day was helped by the first rain i have seen for 2 weeks.
(the sounds of Namche..constant construction)
Day 19/20 - Namche to Khumjung
Well, after all of that food, i guess it should be a surprise that i got food poisoning. Had terrible stomach cramps, vomiting and diarrhoea for 2 days. Luckily i was staying in a very peaceful guest house, all by myself, but i missed out on exploring the village it was set it. I had planned to go up north of Namche for a night, as i had missed the village on the way up, but ended up spending 2 days in bed, feeling sorry for myself. The little i did see though was great- a much more traditional Sherpa village than Namche, and far quieter.
Day 21 - Khumjung to Monjo
I was feeling better in the morning, so felt it was time to start heading down. After my food binge 2 days before, i had barely eaten anything, so was rather weak and slow, and didn't get as far as i had hoped. Spent the slow hike trying to guess which countries hikers came from, based upon the brand of their hiking equipment. Its impossible with North Face as it is too big, but Osprey hiking bags = probably American, MEC = definitely Canadian, Karrimor/Rab/Mountain Equipment = probably English, MontBell = definitely Japanese, and 80's tracksuit with a balaclava and look of exhaustion marks you are being Indian, while drinking booze at dinner and never smiling clearly shows you are Russian.
Day 22 - Monjo to Paiya
Appetite is certainly back! And feeling much better thankfully. Had a nice conversation at dinner and again at breakfast with members of a 26 person strong N.American group - all are strangers, but seem to be getting on well. They did however pay $3200 each for 14 days of trekking- CRAZY MONEY! My entire 5 month trip will have cost less than that.
I stopped off for lunch at a small local place that i stopped at on the way up. They remembered me (probably as the strange foreign person, as this was certainly not a place catering for tourists), and i got free juice and tea this time- brand loyalty pays off!
Am back on the quiet Jiri route now, so far less people, in fact i only saw 1 Japanese guy all afternoon. I also had my first shower during the whole hike! It was a cold one, but still, i feel much better. Was strange to see how much weight ive lost as well, as its the first time ive taken my thermal underwear off in 2 weeks.
Day 23 - Paiya to Chatuk
I saw a pair of birds this morning - one was bright orange, the other bright yellow. They didn't look real, as the colours were just so vivid. I saw 5 Europeans on the trail this morning, but after turning off to the even quieter trail towards Tumlingtar, i have barely seen anyway, foreign or otherwise. There is none of the porter traffic on this trail.
Lovely hiking in an area that doesn't see many tourists, and apart from the odd guest house, it almost seems untouched. My sleeping plans were dashed by the rain, and 1 woman's greed. Due to the rain, i was slower than planned, and wasn't able to get to the village i wanted to. I stopped at a guest house and was told it was 100rs for a room, despite it saying 60rs in the menu. While the total amount of money was little, i held my ground on principle, and in the end the woman got nothing. I walked an extra hour and ended up staying in a tiny little place next to a waterfall, with only 2 teenage girls running it, as their parents had gone off visiting for a few days. It was dark, draughty and ratty (Is that an adjective ?) but it was certainly an experience, and matched my budget. I put my ear plugs in but still didn't get much sleep though, as instead of hearing rats i just dreamt of them instead.
(A paper factory - handmade paper to be used to make Buddhist hangings)
Day 24 - Chatuk to Bung
UP all morning, and DOWN all afternoon, in beautiful and unspoilt (by tourism - the locals have done a good job of chopping the trees down) countryside. No tourists at all, and very peaceful here, with some of the villages looking untouched for 100's of years! Some very spooky Lord of the Rings style mossy woods - i kept expecting giant spiders to try and eat me. The mood was aided by the thick fog that has blanketed the hills today. Another local place to stay tonight, complete with straw mattress which i think is a first for this trip. I have left the Sherpa area, and its back to Hindu Rai villages now, which means less smiles, English and Tibetan fashion, and more silly hats and moustaches.
Day 25 - Bung to Sonam
Breakfast of Tsampa tea is tasty enough, but not very filling, so i stopped for a brunch of friend potatoes in the lovely village of Gundel.
(peace and chicken in Gundel)
There are fruit trees everywhere, and far more variety in the foods being planted - not just the corn and potatoes of the Sherpa highlands. I met a Guatemalan lady this morning, who was the first foreigner i have seen for 2 days. It is sunnier today than it has been, and that means hotter, and therefore sweatier! I made it to Sonam just before the rains which was lucky, but its strange little village. Most of the buildings looks abandoned, yet there is a brand new temple being built on the hill. The guest house was closed so i stayed with a very friendly local family.
(the lovely little house i stayed in)
Day 26 - Sonam to Gothe Bazaar
Very cheap food and accommodation, complete with smiles! I really liked my night in Sonam, but had a long day walking ahead, including my last big climb. Good weather allowed great views of Mt.Mera though. Met a French guy going the same way as me, so we hiked together all the way to Gothe Bazaar, which was further than i had planned on going. Much hotter at this lower elevation, so a swim in the river was very much needed! Sound of the river, cicadas and birds roosting in the thatched roof of the guest house lent a very rustic feel to the night.
(making planks - much of the housing down here is made from wood/bamboo)
Day 27 - Gothe Bazaar to Tumlingtar
The villages in this area are much poorer/ simplier than those found on the main trekking route, and they have much more of a South East Asian feel - thatched roofs, bamboo walls and mud floors. The weather also helps, with high humidity making things rather uncomfortable. Rice is grown everywhere down here, so the crops have certainly changed, and everywhere is very green. I was my first road in 25 days, and first fisherman, bicycle and concrete house, and had fresh bananas! First fresh fruit i have had since Kathmandu.
Day 28 - Tumlingtar to Dharan
There is a national strike on at the moment, and as part of that no cars and buses are on the roads. I am not sure why, but it seemed that it was being enforced anyway, as we didn't see anything on the road we had to hike down. Villages here are very poor, and far less people than at higher elevations, which is odd as its usually the other way around. We managed to find a bus that was running in the evening, seemingly breaking the strike! Overpriced and cramped, but it got us to Dharan a day earlier than we had expected. I spent the day dreaming about all the food i will eat in India, Dubai and England, as Nepali cuisine has grown rather tiresome.
(See- the houses ARE different down here)
Day 29 - Dharan to India
A LONG day full of adventure. With the strike continuing, we started walking from Dharan, not sure how far we could get (150km to the border) but trying our luck. After an hour we managed to hitch a lift with a government water truck, and he dropped us outside a police station, where they hailed two motor bikes to take us to Itahari, the next town. 1/3 of the way there within 2 hours! However, our luck ran out somewhat, and it took the rest of the day to get to the border, and included 20kms of walking, along with hitching on the back of motorbikes, taking a richshaw, getting rides from 2 kids on bicycles, hitching a ride with a bus full of wedding guests, and eventually paying for a ride on the back of a motorbike. A fitting end to my Nepal experience.
(a terrible photo of me at the end of it all...not sure why my eyes are closed. Thinner and beardier)
I took MANY MANY more photos, but i hope these ones help explain my writing, and give a taste of what i saw, and as i said, the best of the rest will eventually find their way onto flickr/facebook
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